Concrete Guides

Preventing Concrete Cracks: Causes, Types, and Solutions

Learn why concrete cracks and how to prevent it. Covers control joints, proper mixing, curing techniques, and repair methods for cracked concrete.

9 min read Updated: 2025-11-30

The Truth About Concrete Cracks

Here’s the reality: all concrete cracks. The goal isn’t to prevent cracking entirely—it’s to control where and how it cracks. Understanding this changes your approach from impossible prevention to effective management.

Types of Concrete Cracks

1. Plastic Shrinkage Cracks

When: Within hours of pouring

Appearance: Short, irregular cracks, often parallel

Cause: Surface dries faster than interior due to:

  • Hot weather
  • Wind
  • Low humidity
  • Direct sun

Prevention:

  • Dampen subgrade before pouring
  • Use windbreaks
  • Apply evaporation retarder
  • Start curing immediately

2. Drying Shrinkage Cracks

When: Days to weeks after pouring

Appearance: Random pattern or at control joint locations

Cause: Natural concrete shrinkage as water evaporates (concrete shrinks about 1/16” per 10 feet)

Prevention:

  • Proper control joints (see below)
  • Good curing practices
  • Correct water-cement ratio
  • Quality aggregates

3. Settlement Cracks

When: Weeks to months after pouring

Appearance: Uneven, following void patterns below slab

Cause:

  • Poor subgrade compaction
  • Soil erosion under slab
  • Organic material decomposition

Prevention:

  • Proper excavation and compaction
  • Remove all organic material
  • Adequate gravel base
  • Compact in lifts

4. Structural Cracks

When: Any time, often worsening

Appearance: Wide cracks, often with displacement

Cause:

  • Overloading
  • Poor reinforcement
  • Design errors
  • Foundation movement

Prevention:

  • Proper engineering
  • Adequate reinforcement
  • Correct slab thickness
  • Professional design for heavy loads

5. Crazing (Map Cracking)

When: Days to weeks after pouring

Appearance: Fine spider-web pattern on surface

Cause:

  • Over-finishing
  • Too much water in mix
  • Rapid surface drying
  • Adding water during finishing

Prevention:

  • Don’t overwork the surface
  • Never add water during finishing
  • Time finishing properly
  • Proper curing

Control Joints: Your Primary Defense

What Are Control Joints?

Pre-planned weak points in the slab that encourage concrete to crack in a straight, hidden line rather than randomly.

Control Joint Rules

Spacing:

  • Maximum: 24-36 × slab thickness in feet
  • Example: 4” slab = 8-10 feet max spacing
  • General rule: Keep panels square (length ≤ 1.5× width)

Depth:

  • Minimum 1/4 of slab thickness
  • 4” slab = 1” deep joint
  • 6” slab = 1.5” deep joint

Joint Cutting Methods

Tooled joints (during pour):

  • Cut while concrete is still workable
  • Use jointing tool after floating
  • Creates cleanest appearance
  • Must be deep enough

Saw-cut joints (after curing):

  • Cut within 4-12 hours of pour
  • Use early-entry saw if possible
  • Traditional saw: 12-24 hours
  • Creates precise lines

Joint Layout Best Practices

  • Plan joints before pouring
  • Mark locations on forms
  • Avoid re-entrant corners (L-shapes crack at inside corner)
  • Run joints through to edges
  • Avoid triangular panels
  • Keep panels as square as possible

The Mix: Getting It Right

Water-Cement Ratio

Too much water causes:

  • Increased shrinkage
  • Lower strength
  • Surface dusting
  • Craze cracking

Ideal ratio: 0.45-0.50 for typical residential

Never add water to pre-mixed concrete to make it more workable. Use plasticizer additives instead.

Aggregate Quality

Problems from poor aggregate:

  • Dirty aggregate traps air
  • Wrong gradation causes segregation
  • Reactive aggregate causes expansion

Use clean, well-graded aggregate from reputable suppliers.

Admixtures That Help

  • Water reducers: Improve workability without added water
  • Shrinkage reducers: Decrease drying shrinkage
  • Fibers: Control plastic shrinkage cracking
  • Air entrainment: Required for freeze-thaw resistance

Proper Curing Prevents Cracks

Why Curing Matters

Concrete that dries too fast:

  • Shrinks more
  • Develops less strength
  • Cracks more readily

Minimum curing: 7 days for residential flatwork

Curing Methods

MethodEffectivenessEffort
Water curingExcellentHigh
Wet burlapExcellentModerate
Plastic sheetingGoodLow
Curing compoundGoodVery low

Temperature and Weather Effects

Hot Weather Pouring (above 85°F)

Risks:

  • Rapid moisture loss
  • Plastic shrinkage cracking
  • Accelerated set time

Solutions:

  • Pour early morning
  • Cool materials (ice in water)
  • Use retarding admixtures
  • Erect sunshades
  • Fog spray if needed
  • Begin curing immediately

Cold Weather Pouring (below 50°F)

Risks:

  • Slow strength gain
  • Freeze damage
  • Thermal cracking

Solutions:

  • Use accelerators
  • Heat materials
  • Insulated blankets after pour
  • Extend curing period
  • Never pour on frozen ground

Rain During Pour

Before concrete sets: Protect with plastic

After initial set: Light rain usually OK

Heavy rain on fresh concrete: Can damage surface, cause scaling

Reinforcement for Crack Control

Wire Mesh

  • Holds cracks together (doesn’t prevent them)
  • Position in upper third of slab
  • Use chairs to maintain position
  • 6×6 welded wire mesh common choice

Rebar

  • Better for driveways and heavy loads
  • #3 or #4 at 18” on center typical
  • Position in middle to upper third
  • Maintain 2-3” concrete cover

Fiber Reinforcement

  • Reduces plastic shrinkage cracking
  • Distributed throughout concrete
  • Doesn’t replace wire mesh or rebar
  • Use as supplement, not replacement

Subgrade Preparation

Proper Base = Fewer Cracks

Steps:

  1. Remove all topsoil and organics
  2. Compact subgrade soil
  3. Add 4-6” of gravel base
  4. Compact gravel in lifts
  5. Moisten before pouring

Vapor Barriers

  • Place 6-mil poly under interior slabs
  • Cover with sand to protect from punctures
  • Helps prevent moisture-related issues
  • May increase surface drying (consider curing)

Common Mistakes That Cause Cracks

MistakeType of CrackPrevention
Too much water in mixDrying shrinkageUse correct water ratio
No control jointsRandom crackingPlan and cut joints
Poor subgrade prepSettlementProper compaction
Finishing too soonCrazingWait for bleed water
No curingAll typesCure minimum 7 days
Adding water during pourWeak zones, cracksNever add water
Re-entrant cornersCorner cracksAdd joint at corner

Repairing Existing Cracks

Hairline Cracks (less than 1/8”)

Method: Apply concrete crack filler or caulk

  • Clean crack with brush
  • Apply filler with caulk gun
  • Smooth with putty knife
  • Let cure per product instructions

Medium Cracks (1/8” to 1/2”)

Method: Epoxy or polyurethane injection

  • Clean and dry crack
  • Apply injection ports
  • Inject repair material
  • Cap ports after filling

Large Cracks (over 1/2”)

Method: Routing and sealing

  • Widen crack with grinder
  • Clean thoroughly
  • Fill with flexible sealant
  • Or consider slab replacement

When to Call a Professional

  • Cracks with vertical displacement
  • Cracks that continue growing
  • Structural concrete cracking
  • Foundation cracks
  • Cracks with water infiltration

Crack Prevention Checklist

Before pour:

  • Control joints planned
  • Subgrade properly compacted
  • Gravel base installed
  • Reinforcement positioned on chairs
  • Weather conditions acceptable

During pour:

  • Correct water-cement ratio
  • No water added to mix
  • Concrete placed, not thrown
  • Vibrated/consolidated properly
  • Control joints tooled on time

After pour:

  • Curing begins immediately
  • Saw cuts made in time (if using)
  • Protected from weather extremes
  • Traffic restricted appropriate time

Calculate Your Concrete Needs

Planning a crack-free concrete project? Use our free Concrete Calculator to estimate materials and costs.


Pro Tip: The three most important factors in crack prevention are: proper control joints, correct water-cement ratio, and adequate curing. Get these three right, and you’ll avoid 90% of concrete crack problems. When in doubt, add more control joints—they’re invisible when cracks form in them, which is exactly what you want.