The Truth About Concrete Cracks
Here’s the reality: all concrete cracks. The goal isn’t to prevent cracking entirely—it’s to control where and how it cracks. Understanding this changes your approach from impossible prevention to effective management.
Types of Concrete Cracks
1. Plastic Shrinkage Cracks
When: Within hours of pouring
Appearance: Short, irregular cracks, often parallel
Cause: Surface dries faster than interior due to:
- Hot weather
- Wind
- Low humidity
- Direct sun
Prevention:
- Dampen subgrade before pouring
- Use windbreaks
- Apply evaporation retarder
- Start curing immediately
2. Drying Shrinkage Cracks
When: Days to weeks after pouring
Appearance: Random pattern or at control joint locations
Cause: Natural concrete shrinkage as water evaporates (concrete shrinks about 1/16” per 10 feet)
Prevention:
- Proper control joints (see below)
- Good curing practices
- Correct water-cement ratio
- Quality aggregates
3. Settlement Cracks
When: Weeks to months after pouring
Appearance: Uneven, following void patterns below slab
Cause:
- Poor subgrade compaction
- Soil erosion under slab
- Organic material decomposition
Prevention:
- Proper excavation and compaction
- Remove all organic material
- Adequate gravel base
- Compact in lifts
4. Structural Cracks
When: Any time, often worsening
Appearance: Wide cracks, often with displacement
Cause:
- Overloading
- Poor reinforcement
- Design errors
- Foundation movement
Prevention:
- Proper engineering
- Adequate reinforcement
- Correct slab thickness
- Professional design for heavy loads
5. Crazing (Map Cracking)
When: Days to weeks after pouring
Appearance: Fine spider-web pattern on surface
Cause:
- Over-finishing
- Too much water in mix
- Rapid surface drying
- Adding water during finishing
Prevention:
- Don’t overwork the surface
- Never add water during finishing
- Time finishing properly
- Proper curing
Control Joints: Your Primary Defense
What Are Control Joints?
Pre-planned weak points in the slab that encourage concrete to crack in a straight, hidden line rather than randomly.
Control Joint Rules
Spacing:
- Maximum: 24-36 × slab thickness in feet
- Example: 4” slab = 8-10 feet max spacing
- General rule: Keep panels square (length ≤ 1.5× width)
Depth:
- Minimum 1/4 of slab thickness
- 4” slab = 1” deep joint
- 6” slab = 1.5” deep joint
Joint Cutting Methods
Tooled joints (during pour):
- Cut while concrete is still workable
- Use jointing tool after floating
- Creates cleanest appearance
- Must be deep enough
Saw-cut joints (after curing):
- Cut within 4-12 hours of pour
- Use early-entry saw if possible
- Traditional saw: 12-24 hours
- Creates precise lines
Joint Layout Best Practices
- Plan joints before pouring
- Mark locations on forms
- Avoid re-entrant corners (L-shapes crack at inside corner)
- Run joints through to edges
- Avoid triangular panels
- Keep panels as square as possible
The Mix: Getting It Right
Water-Cement Ratio
Too much water causes:
- Increased shrinkage
- Lower strength
- Surface dusting
- Craze cracking
Ideal ratio: 0.45-0.50 for typical residential
Never add water to pre-mixed concrete to make it more workable. Use plasticizer additives instead.
Aggregate Quality
Problems from poor aggregate:
- Dirty aggregate traps air
- Wrong gradation causes segregation
- Reactive aggregate causes expansion
Use clean, well-graded aggregate from reputable suppliers.
Admixtures That Help
- Water reducers: Improve workability without added water
- Shrinkage reducers: Decrease drying shrinkage
- Fibers: Control plastic shrinkage cracking
- Air entrainment: Required for freeze-thaw resistance
Proper Curing Prevents Cracks
Why Curing Matters
Concrete that dries too fast:
- Shrinks more
- Develops less strength
- Cracks more readily
Minimum curing: 7 days for residential flatwork
Curing Methods
| Method | Effectiveness | Effort |
|---|---|---|
| Water curing | Excellent | High |
| Wet burlap | Excellent | Moderate |
| Plastic sheeting | Good | Low |
| Curing compound | Good | Very low |
Temperature and Weather Effects
Hot Weather Pouring (above 85°F)
Risks:
- Rapid moisture loss
- Plastic shrinkage cracking
- Accelerated set time
Solutions:
- Pour early morning
- Cool materials (ice in water)
- Use retarding admixtures
- Erect sunshades
- Fog spray if needed
- Begin curing immediately
Cold Weather Pouring (below 50°F)
Risks:
- Slow strength gain
- Freeze damage
- Thermal cracking
Solutions:
- Use accelerators
- Heat materials
- Insulated blankets after pour
- Extend curing period
- Never pour on frozen ground
Rain During Pour
Before concrete sets: Protect with plastic
After initial set: Light rain usually OK
Heavy rain on fresh concrete: Can damage surface, cause scaling
Reinforcement for Crack Control
Wire Mesh
- Holds cracks together (doesn’t prevent them)
- Position in upper third of slab
- Use chairs to maintain position
- 6×6 welded wire mesh common choice
Rebar
- Better for driveways and heavy loads
- #3 or #4 at 18” on center typical
- Position in middle to upper third
- Maintain 2-3” concrete cover
Fiber Reinforcement
- Reduces plastic shrinkage cracking
- Distributed throughout concrete
- Doesn’t replace wire mesh or rebar
- Use as supplement, not replacement
Subgrade Preparation
Proper Base = Fewer Cracks
Steps:
- Remove all topsoil and organics
- Compact subgrade soil
- Add 4-6” of gravel base
- Compact gravel in lifts
- Moisten before pouring
Vapor Barriers
- Place 6-mil poly under interior slabs
- Cover with sand to protect from punctures
- Helps prevent moisture-related issues
- May increase surface drying (consider curing)
Common Mistakes That Cause Cracks
| Mistake | Type of Crack | Prevention |
|---|---|---|
| Too much water in mix | Drying shrinkage | Use correct water ratio |
| No control joints | Random cracking | Plan and cut joints |
| Poor subgrade prep | Settlement | Proper compaction |
| Finishing too soon | Crazing | Wait for bleed water |
| No curing | All types | Cure minimum 7 days |
| Adding water during pour | Weak zones, cracks | Never add water |
| Re-entrant corners | Corner cracks | Add joint at corner |
Repairing Existing Cracks
Hairline Cracks (less than 1/8”)
Method: Apply concrete crack filler or caulk
- Clean crack with brush
- Apply filler with caulk gun
- Smooth with putty knife
- Let cure per product instructions
Medium Cracks (1/8” to 1/2”)
Method: Epoxy or polyurethane injection
- Clean and dry crack
- Apply injection ports
- Inject repair material
- Cap ports after filling
Large Cracks (over 1/2”)
Method: Routing and sealing
- Widen crack with grinder
- Clean thoroughly
- Fill with flexible sealant
- Or consider slab replacement
When to Call a Professional
- Cracks with vertical displacement
- Cracks that continue growing
- Structural concrete cracking
- Foundation cracks
- Cracks with water infiltration
Crack Prevention Checklist
Before pour:
- Control joints planned
- Subgrade properly compacted
- Gravel base installed
- Reinforcement positioned on chairs
- Weather conditions acceptable
During pour:
- Correct water-cement ratio
- No water added to mix
- Concrete placed, not thrown
- Vibrated/consolidated properly
- Control joints tooled on time
After pour:
- Curing begins immediately
- Saw cuts made in time (if using)
- Protected from weather extremes
- Traffic restricted appropriate time
Calculate Your Concrete Needs
Planning a crack-free concrete project? Use our free Concrete Calculator to estimate materials and costs.
Pro Tip: The three most important factors in crack prevention are: proper control joints, correct water-cement ratio, and adequate curing. Get these three right, and you’ll avoid 90% of concrete crack problems. When in doubt, add more control joints—they’re invisible when cracks form in them, which is exactly what you want.