Mortar Joint Styles and When to Use Them

Why Joint Profile Matters

Joint profile changes how a wall sheds water and how it looks. Some joints are strong outside. Some are mostly decorative. Pick the right one before you tool the wall.

The Six Standard Joint Profiles

1. Concave Joint (Most Recommended)

Profile: Curved inward (half-round depression)

Made with: Round jointing tool, piece of pipe

Weather resistance: Excellent

Best for:

• Exterior walls
• All climates
• Most applications

Why it works: The tooling compresses mortar at the edges, creating a tight seal. The curved surface sheds water away from the joint.

Technique:

1. Wait for mortar to become thumbprint hard
2. Press jointing tool into joint
3. Draw along joint with consistent pressure
4. Tool vertical joints first, then horizontal

2. V-Joint

Profile: V-shaped groove in center

Made with: V-shaped jointing tool

Weather resistance: Very good

Best for:

• Exterior walls
• Traditional/historic appearance
• Alternative to concave

Why it works: Point of V creates shadow line while still compressing edges. Water runs to center and drains.

Technique:

1. Press V-tool firmly into joint
2. Maintain consistent angle
3. Creates crisp shadow line
4. More decorative than concave

3. Flush Joint

Profile: Flat, level with brick face

Made with: Trowel edge

Weather resistance: Fair

Best for:

• Interior walls
• Base for painting
• Some industrial applications

Limitations: Doesn’t compress mortar edges. Water can penetrate at brick-mortar interface.

Technique:

1. Cut excess mortar flush with trowel
2. Minimal tooling
3. May be painted or parged

4. Raked Joint

Profile: Mortar recessed from brick face

Made with: Raking tool, bent nail

Weather resistance: Poor

Best for:

• Interior walls only
• Decorative effect
• Shadow lines

Caution: NOT recommended for exterior walls. The ledge collects water and accelerates deterioration. Freezing water can spall bricks.

Technique:

1. Remove mortar to consistent depth (3/8” max)
2. Clean debris from recess
3. Creates dramatic shadow effect

5. Struck Joint

Profile: Angled inward from top to bottom

Made with: Trowel held at angle

Weather resistance: Poor

Best for:

• Interior applications
• Not recommended for exterior

Problem: The angle directs water toward the lower brick, encouraging saturation and damage.

6. Weathered Joint

Profile: Angled outward from top to bottom (opposite of struck)

Made with: Trowel held at angle, pressing inward at top

Weather resistance: Good

Best for:

• Exterior walls
• Alternative where tooling is difficult
• Quick production work

Why it works: Angle sheds water outward and down. Upper edge is compressed.

Specialty Joints

Beaded Joint

Profile: Raised half-round bead projecting from mortar

Use: Decorative, historical reproduction

Weather resistance: Fair (bead can deteriorate)

Grapevine Joint

Profile: Indented line down center of flush joint

Use: Colonial-era reproduction, decorative

Made with: Special grapevine jointer

Squeezed (Extruded) Joint

Profile: Mortar squeezed out and left natural

Use: Rustic appearance, intentionally rough

Weather resistance: Poor (not tooled)

Joint Profile Comparison

Profile	Weather Resistance	Appearance	Difficulty	Best Use
Concave	Excellent	Clean	Easy	Exterior, any
V-Joint	Very Good	Decorative	Moderate	Exterior
Flush	Fair	Utilitarian	Easy	Interior
Raked	Poor	Bold shadows	Easy	Interior only
Struck	Poor	Angled	Easy	Interior only
Weathered	Good	Subtle	Moderate	Exterior

Matching Existing Joints

For Repair Work

1. Identify the existing profile by viewing at an angle
2. Select matching jointing tool
3. Practice on hidden area first
4. Match mortar color (see below)

Common Profile Recognition

Concave: Smooth, curved depression

V: Sharp center line, angled sides

Flush: No visible profile, level with brick

Raked: Recessed shadow at joint

Tooling Timing

The Thumbprint Test

Ready to tool when:

• Press thumb into mortar
• Leaves clean impression
• Doesn’t stick to thumb
• Mortar holds shape

Too wet:

• Mortar smears
• Sticks to tool
• Won’t hold profile

Too hard:

• Tool tears mortar
• Black marks appear
• Surface crumbles

Typical Timing

Conditions	Time After Laying
Hot/dry	15-30 minutes
Moderate	30-60 minutes
Cool/humid	60-90 minutes

Tooling Technique Tips

For Best Results

Tool vertically first:

• Prevents smearing on horizontal joints
• Clean tool frequently

Consistent pressure:

• Same compression throughout
• Creates uniform appearance

Work in sections:

• Tool as mortar reaches proper hardness
• Don’t wait until entire wall is laid

Keep tools clean:

• Build-up creates uneven profiles
• Wipe with wet rag frequently

Common Tooling Mistakes

Mistake	Result	Fix
Tooling too early	Rough, torn surface	Wait longer
Tooling too late	Poor compression, cracking	Work in smaller sections
Inconsistent pressure	Wavy joint	Practice technique
Dirty tool	Uneven profile	Clean frequently

Joint Color Matching

Factors Affecting Color

• Cement color: Gray vs. white cement
• Sand color: Major color contributor
• Pigments: Added for specific colors
• Water content: More water = lighter color
• Curing: Inconsistent curing causes color variation

Matching Existing Mortar

1. Sample existing mortar (from hidden area)
2. Analyze components (sand color, cement type)
3. Make test batches with different ratios
4. Cure samples fully (28 days) before comparing
5. Wet samples when comparing (matches appearance better)

When to Hire a Professional

DIY-Appropriate

• New walls you’re building
• Hidden or non-critical repairs
• Interior applications
• Practice projects

Professional Recommended

• Historic restoration
• Visible exterior repairs
• Color matching critical
• Large repointing projects

Calculate Your Masonry Project

Need masonry numbers? Use our Masonry Calculator.

---

Pro Tip: Work in small sections so the mortar stays at the right stiffness when you tool it. Make a sample panel first if the finish matters.