Privacy Fence Overview

A well-built privacy fence provides security, blocks views, reduces noise, and increases property value. This guide covers the installation of a standard 6-foot wood privacy fence.

Project difficulty: Intermediate Time required: 2-3 days for 100 linear feet Helpers needed: 1-2 people

Tools and Materials

Tools Needed

Essential:

Post hole digger or power auger
4-foot level
String line and stakes
Tape measure (25-foot minimum)
Circular saw or miter saw
Drill/driver with bits
Hammer
Shovel
Wheelbarrow
Safety glasses and gloves

Helpful:

Laser level
Post level (attaches to post)
Speed square
Clamps
Sawhorses

Materials Checklist

Item	Quantity Guide
4×4 posts (8 ft)	1 per 8 feet + ends/corners
2×4 rails	2 per section (top and bottom)
Fence pickets	18-20 per 8-foot section (for 6” boards)
Fast-setting concrete	1-2 bags per post
Galvanized screws	3” for rails, 2” for pickets
Gravel	50 lbs per post
Post caps (optional)	1 per post

Use our Fencing Calculator for exact quantities.

Step 1: Layout and String Lines

Mark the Corners

Drive stakes at each corner location
Position stakes 6 inches outside actual fence line
Pull string tightly between stakes
Verify corners are square (3-4-5 method)

The 3-4-5 Method for Square Corners

Measure 3 feet along one string from corner
Measure 4 feet along the other string
Diagonal between marks should be exactly 5 feet
Adjust until perfect

Mark Post Locations

Starting at a corner, measure along string
Mark every 8 feet (or your chosen spacing)
Use spray paint or stakes to mark center of each post
Double-check measurements before digging

Step 2: Dig Post Holes

Hole Specifications

Depth: 1/3 of post length (24” for 6-foot above-ground)
Diameter: 10-12 inches (3× post width)
Add to depth: 4 inches for gravel base

Digging Methods

Manual post hole digger:

Position handles over mark
Plunge blades into soil
Spread handles to grab soil
Lift and remove
Repeat until depth reached

Power auger:

Position over mark
Start slow, let auger dig
Clear soil every 6 inches
Check for utilities while digging

Pro tip: Dig all holes before setting any posts. This ensures consistent spacing and saves time.

Dealing with Obstacles

Rocks: Use digging bar to break or pry out

Roots: Cut with root saw or axe

Utilities: If hit, stop immediately and call utility company

Step 3: Set Corner and End Posts

Why Corners First?

Corner and end posts become your reference points. Get these perfect, and the rest of the fence follows.

Setting Process

Add drainage gravel: 4 inches in bottom, tamp firm
Position post: Set in hole, centered
Check height: Top should be at finish height (usually 6 feet above ground for privacy fence)
Check plumb: Level on two adjacent faces—not opposite faces
Brace temporarily: Use 2×4 stakes angled to post, screwed in place
Mix concrete: Follow package directions in wheelbarrow
Fill hole: Pour around post, not on post. Leave 4 inches from surface.
Re-check plumb: Adjust while concrete is wet
Tamp concrete: Use stick to remove air pockets
Crown the top: Slope concrete away from post for drainage
Let cure: Minimum 24 hours before removing braces

Step 4: Run String Lines

After Corner Posts Set

Run string from corner to corner at top of posts
Run second string at bottom rail height (8-12 inches from ground)
Pull very tight—sag causes crooked fences
Verify strings are level (within reason for sloped ground)

For Sloped Ground

Stepped fence: Posts level, panels step down with grade

Better for steep slopes
More material at transitions
More formal appearance

Racked fence: Panels follow ground slope

Works for gentle slopes (less than 1 inch per foot)
Continuous appearance
Requires angled cuts

Step 5: Set Line Posts

Process for Each Post

Position post in hole against string line
Adjust height to match string
Check plumb on two faces
Brace and fill with concrete
Verify alignment with string before concrete sets
Move to next post

Maintaining Alignment

Check every post against string before concrete sets
Minor adjustments possible for 15-20 minutes
Work efficiently but don’t rush

Step 6: Install Rails

Wait for Concrete

Allow concrete to cure minimum 24-48 hours before attaching rails.

Top Rail Installation

Measure between posts: Each bay may vary slightly
Cut rail to fit: Should be snug but not forced
Position rail: Top edge 7-8 inches from post top
Check level: Adjust as needed
Attach: Two 3-inch screws per end, toe-screwed

Bottom Rail Installation

Measure and cut: Same as top rail
Position: 4-8 inches from ground level
Check level and parallel to top rail
Attach: Two screws per end

Rail Options

Flat rail (2×4 on edge):

Standard method
Easy to attach pickets
May hold water on top

Rail on flat (2×4 flat):

Stronger for long spans
Sheds water better
Harder to attach pickets

Middle rail:

Add for 8-foot tall fences
Reduces picket warping
Position at center height

Step 7: Attach Pickets

Starting Point

Begin at corner or end post where alignment matters most.

First Picket Placement

Position against post, flush with top rail
Check plumb with level
This picket sets the pattern—be precise
Attach with two screws at each rail (4 total per picket)

Subsequent Pickets

For solid privacy fence:

Place pickets touching (no gap)
Check plumb every 5-6 pickets
Adjust spacing slightly if needed to end evenly

For shadow box or spaced:

Use spacer block for consistent gaps
1-2 inch gaps common for shadow box

Attachment Methods

Screws (recommended):

Use 2-inch exterior screws
Predrill to prevent splitting
Two screws per rail (4-6 per picket)
Use corrosion-resistant (ceramic coated or stainless)

Nails:

Ring-shank or spiral for holding power
Two per rail location
Faster but less holding power

Picket Height Options

Flush with top rail: Classic look, rail visible

Above top rail: Hides rail, dog-ear design common

Below top rail: Rail caps possible

Step 8: Install Post Caps

Purpose

Protect end grain from water
Decorative element
Extends post life

Installation

Apply construction adhesive to cap bottom
Center on post top
Press firmly
Nail or screw if needed (some caps have attachments)

Step 9: Gate Installation

Gate Opening

Calculate width:

Desired opening + 3-4 inches for hardware
Example: 4-foot opening = 3’8” to 3’9” gate

Building the Gate

Build frame: Use 2×4s, same as fence rails
Add diagonal brace: Corner to corner, bottom hinge side to top latch side
Attach pickets: Same as fence
Hang gate:
- Heavy-duty hinges at top and bottom
- Shim gate in opening for even gaps
- Attach hinges to post
- Test swing before tightening

Gate Hardware

Required:

Heavy-duty hinges (strap or T-hinges)
Latch (gravity or thumb)
Cane bolt for double gates

Optional:

Self-closing hinges
Lock
Gate wheel (for large gates)

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Mistake	Problem	Prevention
Posts not plumb	Crooked fence	Check two faces with level
Inconsistent post height	Wavy top line	Use string line
Posts too shallow	Leaning fence	1/3 length underground
No concrete crown	Post rot	Slope concrete away from post
Rails not level	Crooked pickets	Check every section
Wrong screw size	Split wood	Use correct length, predrill

Finishing Touches

Staining or Painting

Wait 2-4 weeks for pressure-treated wood to dry
Apply stain or paint for weather protection
Reapply every 2-3 years

Maintenance

Annual inspection for loose boards
Tighten hardware as needed
Replace damaged pickets promptly
Keep soil away from base of posts

Cost Summary

Materials (per 100 linear feet)

Item	Cost Range
Posts (13 × $15-25)	$195-325
Rails (26 × $8-12)	$208-312
Pickets (250 × $3-5)	$750-1,250
Concrete (20 bags × $5)	$100
Hardware	$50-100
Total materials	$1,300-2,100

Add professional labor: $1,500-3,000 for 100 ft

Calculate Your Fence Materials

Ready to build? Use our free Fencing Calculator for exact material quantities and cost estimates for your specific fence dimensions.

Pro Tip: Work in sections. Complete posts, rails, and pickets for one section before moving to the next. This lets you catch problems early and adjust technique. Plus, seeing a completed section is motivating when you still have a long fence to build.