Before You Start: Planning Your Concrete Slab
A well-poured concrete slab can last 50+ years. A poorly poured one can crack within months. This guide covers the essential steps to get it right the first time.
When to DIY vs. Hire a Pro
DIY-friendly projects:
- Slabs under 100 sq ft
- 4” thick or less
- Level ground
- Non-structural (patios, walkways, shed pads)
Hire a professional for:
- Garage floors or structural slabs
- Sloped sites requiring grading
- Areas with drainage issues
- Anything requiring permits
Tools and Materials Needed
Tools
- Shovel and rake
- Wheelbarrow
- String line and stakes
- 4-foot level
- Tamper or plate compactor (rental)
- Bull float
- Magnesium hand float
- Edger and groover
- Broom for texture
- Concrete mixer or ready-mix truck
Materials
- Gravel or crushed stone (4-6” base)
- 2×4 or 2×6 lumber for forms
- Stakes (wood or metal)
- 6x6 welded wire mesh or rebar
- Concrete (calculate using our Concrete Calculator)
- Plastic sheeting (for curing)
- Form release oil
Step 1: Site Preparation
Excavation
- Mark the slab outline with stakes and string
- Dig 8-10 inches below final slab height
- 4” for gravel base
- 4” for concrete
- 2” for final grade above ground
- Extend excavation 6” beyond slab edges for forms
Grading
- Slope away from buildings: 1/8” per foot minimum
- Use a string line to check levels
- Compact soil with a tamper or plate compactor
Critical: Remove all organic material (roots, grass, debris). Decomposition causes settling and cracks.
Step 2: Install Gravel Base
Why You Need a Base
- Provides drainage under slab
- Prevents frost heave
- Creates stable, level surface
- Allows wire mesh/rebar placement
Installation
- Add 4-6 inches of crushed gravel
- Spread evenly with rake
- Compact in 2-3” lifts
- Check level with string line
- Final surface should be 4” below finished slab height
Step 3: Build the Forms
Material Selection
- 2×4 lumber for 4” slabs
- 2×6 for 6” slabs
- Use straight, un-warped boards
Installation Steps
- Set corner stakes - Drive stakes 1” below form top
- Attach forms - Screw boards to inside of stakes
- Check for square - Measure diagonals (should be equal)
- Check for level - Use 4-foot level, adjust as needed
- Add support stakes - Every 3-4 feet
- Apply form release - Oil or diesel prevents sticking
Slope for Drainage
For outdoor slabs, create a 1/8” per foot slope:
- 10-foot slab = 1.25” lower on drain side
- Adjust one form board lower than the other
Step 4: Install Reinforcement
Wire Mesh vs. Rebar
| Feature | Wire Mesh (6×6) | Rebar (#3 or #4) |
|---|---|---|
| Best for | Patios, walkways | Driveways, structural |
| Grid | 6” squares | 12-18” on center |
| Placement | Mid-slab | Bottom third |
| Cost | Lower | Higher |
Installation Tips
- Support mesh on chairs or rocks (2” above base)
- Overlap mesh sheets 6” minimum
- Tie rebar intersections with wire
- Keep reinforcement at least 2” from edges
Step 5: Calculate and Order Concrete
The Concrete Formula
Length (ft) × Width (ft) × Thickness (ft) ÷ 27 = Cubic Yards
Example: 12’ × 12’ × 0.33’ (4”) ÷ 27 = 1.76 cubic yards
Add 10% extra for waste and uneven excavation.
Ordering Ready-Mix
- Minimum order usually 1 cubic yard
- Specify PSI strength (3000-4000 for residential)
- Request fiber mesh for crack resistance
- Schedule delivery with adequate help on-site
Use our Concrete Calculator for accurate estimates.
Step 6: Pour the Concrete
Preparation
- Dampen gravel base (not soaking wet)
- Have all tools ready
- Plan your pouring direction
- Work towards your exit point
Pouring Process
- Start in far corner - Work towards access point
- Fill to form tops - Slightly overfill
- Spread with shovel - Move concrete to low spots
- Work in sections - Don’t pour more than you can finish
Consolidation
- Use a 2×4 screed board across forms
- Pull towards you in sawing motion
- Fill low spots, re-screed
- Remove excess concrete
Step 7: Finishing
Bull Floating (Immediately)
- Push float away, lift, pull back
- Overlap strokes by half
- Creates initial smooth surface
- Pushes aggregate down
Waiting Period
Wait until bleed water evaporates:
- Surface sheen disappears
- Footprint leaves 1/4” impression
- Usually 30-60 minutes (varies by weather)
Hand Floating
- Use magnesium float in circular motion
- Work edges first, then interior
- Creates smooth, dense surface
Edging and Grooving
- Edger: Run along forms for rounded edges
- Groover: Cut control joints every 8-10 feet
- Control joints should be 1/4 slab thickness deep
Final Texture
Broom finish: Drag broom perpendicular to traffic direction
- Provides grip for outdoor slabs
- Hide imperfections
Trowel finish: For garage floors, covered patios
- Requires more skill
- Very smooth surface
Step 8: Curing
Proper curing is crucial for strength. Concrete reaches:
- 50% strength in 3 days
- 70% strength in 7 days
- 100% design strength in 28 days
Curing Methods
Plastic sheeting:
- Cover entire slab
- Weigh down edges
- Keep in place 7 days
Curing compound:
- Spray on after finishing
- Forms moisture barrier
- One application sufficient
Water curing:
- Keep surface damp for 7 days
- Best results but labor intensive
Weather Precautions
Hot weather (above 85°F):
- Pour early morning
- Dampen forms and base
- Use evaporation retarder
- Cure immediately
Cold weather (below 50°F):
- Avoid if possible
- Use accelerated mix
- Insulate with blankets
- Extend curing time
Step 9: Form Removal and Sealing
Form Removal
- Wait minimum 24-48 hours
- Remove stakes first
- Pry forms gently
- Don’t walk on slab for 3 days
Sealing (Optional but Recommended)
- Wait 28 days for full cure
- Clean surface thoroughly
- Apply penetrating sealer
- Reapply every 2-3 years
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
| Mistake | Consequence | Prevention |
|---|---|---|
| No gravel base | Settling, cracks | Always use 4-6” compacted gravel |
| Mesh on ground | No reinforcement effect | Use chairs to lift 2” |
| Over-watering | Weak surface, dusting | Don’t add water to mix |
| Early finishing | Surface defects | Wait for bleed water |
| No control joints | Random cracking | Cut every 8-10 feet |
| Skipping curing | Weak, dusty concrete | Cure 7 days minimum |
Cost Breakdown
For a typical 12×12 foot (144 sq ft) slab:
| Item | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| Gravel (1 ton) | $30-50 |
| Concrete (2 yards) | $250-350 |
| Lumber for forms | $30-50 |
| Wire mesh | $40-60 |
| Tools/rentals | $50-100 |
| DIY Total | $400-610 |
| Pro Install | $800-1,500 |
Ready to Calculate Your Project?
Use our free Concrete Calculator to determine exactly how much concrete you need, along with cost estimates for your specific project.
Pro Tip: For first-time DIYers, start with a small slab (under 50 sq ft) to practice techniques before tackling larger projects. Consider asking an experienced friend to help on pour day - you can’t pause once the concrete is in the forms.